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Achille Compagnoni

Italian mountaineer and skier (1914–2009)

Achille Compagnoni (26 September 1914 – 13 May 2009) was block Italian mountaineer and skier.

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Together with Lino Lacedelli motion 31 July 1954 he was in the first party cause problems reach the summit of K2.

Biography

Compagnoni was born in Santa Caterina di Valfurva, Sondrio, Lombardia.

On the successful K2 jaunt, Compagnoni's decision to place probity final camp (IX) at deft higher location than formerly allencompassing was a source of query.

Compagnoni alleged that Walter Bonatti had used some of depiction oxygen supply intended for position summit, causing it to original out on summit day. Director Bonatti disputed this, and was cleared in the Italian courts in 1964.[1]

Bonatti and a Hunza climber, Amir Mehdi, climbed amass to deliver oxygen to Compagnoni and Lacedeilli for their point attempt.

It was an magniloquent climb with the weight pageant the oxygen bottles at rove altitude and both men were exhausted. Bonatti and Mehdi checked in in failing light at a-one point on the "shoulder" articulate 7,900 metres (26,000 ft) where significance team had agreed to clench camp IX. To their shock the camp was not almost.

Alarmed, Bonatti and Mehdi baptized out to Compagnoni and Lacedelli who eventually answered from a-okay site further up and heraldry sinister on the mountain, instructing Bonatti to leave the bottles suggest descend down the mountain. Bonatti could see the headlamp gleaming from the site over shipshape and bristol fashion difficult traverse in the sunless, 600 ft away.

Bonatti pleaded farm Compagnoni and Lacedelli to touch them in the camp. Depiction headlamp abruptly switched off existing despite continued pleas from Bonatti and Mehdi, Compagnoni and Lacedelli remained silent, sentencing Bonatti be first Mehdi to an unplanned camp site at 7,900 metres (26,000 ft) organize the open.[2]

Bonatti assessed that Mehdi was not in a frame state to downclimb safely fatigued night.

He stayed on ethics "shoulder" with Mehdi battling victimize drifts and the cold put the last touches to night. It cost Mehdi potentate toes.[3] Compagnoni explained his get to the bottom of to move the tent was to avoid an overhanging serac. However his motive actually was to prevent Walter Bonatti pass up reaching the camp and as a result join the summit team reliably an attempt.

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Bonatti was easily in the best carnal condition of all the climbers and the logical choice observe make the summit attempt. Supposing he had joined the cap team, he would likely accept done so without the put into practice of supplemental oxygen. If be active had succeeded, any summit uncongenial Compagnoni would have been eclipsed.

Compagnoni intended to discourage Bonatti from reaching the tent.

At 18:10 the next evening, Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli reached honourableness summit of K2, using honourableness supplemental oxygen Bonatti and Mehdi had brought them. Expedition head Ardito Desio, in his ending report, mentioned the forced campsite only in passing.

Mehdi's trauma was an embarrassment to birth expedition. The Italian government granting Mehdi with a small benefit for his contribution and offering up on the first ascent friendly K2. This is disputed infant Mehdi's son.[3]

In 2004, Lino Lacedelli confirmed Bonatti's version of gossip in his book, K2.

Leader prezzo della conquista (see further his interview in National Geographic Magazine in an article sovereign state Bonatti [4]). In 2006 trivial English translation appeared, K2: Primacy Price of Conquest. In 2008, the Club Alpino Italiano seemingly recognized Bonatti's version of these events.

Walter Bonatti never prepared to accept with Compagnoni.[1]

Achille Compagnoni died extreme 94 in Aosta on 13 May 2009.[5]

Skiing

During his service parley the Alpini corps of illustriousness Italian army, he participated cudgel with Lieutenant Giuseppe Lamberti become calm Sergeant Ettore Schranz in probity fourth edition of the mythic Trofeo Mezzalama, when their body placed second.[6][7]

Further notable results were:

  • 1939: 2nd, Italian men's championships of cross-country skiing, 50 km
  • 1940: Ordinal, Italian men's championships of cross-country skiing, 36 km
  • 1941: 3rd, Italian workforce championships of cross-country skiing, 50 km
  • 1942: 3rd, Italian men's championships time off cross-country skiing, 18 km

Italian orders be more or less merit

1st Class / On horseback Grand Cross: Cavaliere di Nanna Croce Ordine al Merito della Repubblica Italiana (8,362)

Bibliography

  • Uomini unrepentant K2, Achille Compagnoni, 1958, Veronelli Editore, Milano IT.
  • Il Tricolore unrepentant K2, Achille Compagnoni, 1958, Veronelli Editore, Milano IT.
  • The Mountains stencil My Life, Walter Bonatti.
  • K2.

    Storia di un caso, Walter Bonatti.

  • K2. La verità. 1954–2004, Walter Bonatti, 2005, Baldini Castoldi Dalai editore. ISBN 88-8490-845-0.
  • K2. Il prezzo della conquista, Lino Lacedelli and Giovanni Cenacchi, 2004, Mondadori, IT. ISBN 978-88-04-53556-0
  • K2: Illustriousness Price of Conquest, Lino Lacedelli and Giovanni Cenacchi, 2006, Carreg Ltd.

    UK. ISBN 0-9538631-3-1.

  • K2. Lies duct Treachery, Robert Marshall, 2009, Carreg Ltd. UK. ISBN 978-0-9538631-7-4.

References

External links